Fuel pump

Post by **Scooby** » Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:03 pm

mikenali wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:10 pm
Had similar problems a few years ago.

My problem was the immobiliser wiring. I'd done the moby bypass. But the fuel pump wire about an inch back from the moby plug was breaking down. There was enough there for the fuel pump to work, but not enough to fuel the engine properly.

I'll keep this in mind if the fuel pump replacement fails thanks.

Post by **Scooby** » Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:00 pm

Scooby wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:03 pm

mikenali wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:10 pm
Had similar problems a few years ago.

My problem was the immobiliser wiring. I'd done the moby bypass. But the fuel pump wire about an inch back from the moby plug was breaking down. There was enough there for the fuel pump to work, but not enough to fuel the engine properly.
I'll keep this in mind if the fuel pump replacement fails thanks.

I fed the pump with 12v direct and still wasn't playing.

I have no idea why the ruddy thing won't kick in.

Fuel pump replaced and working as it should. (Fuel flows out from the fuel filter, but not what I'd call "under pressure", however I guess that would increase if it was going to the rail)
Dizzy replaced with brand new unit and sparking away merrily. Plugs and leads replaced. Dizzy cap new with dizzy.
Engine turns over as it should.
Unplugged and plugged CPS a few times. (Could have failed completely I guess but how likely is that?. Where is the actual unit to replace it?)
My understanding however is that it wouldn't spark if the CPS wasn't sending a signal. Anyone confirm or deny?

Post by **mojo98** » Mon Mar 25, 2019 2:18 pm

Scooby wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:00 pm

Scooby wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:03 pm

mikenali wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:10 pm
Had similar problems a few years ago.

My problem was the immobiliser wiring. I'd done the moby bypass. But the fuel pump wire about an inch back from the moby plug was breaking down. There was enough there for the fuel pump to work, but not enough to fuel the engine properly.
I'll keep this in mind if the fuel pump replacement fails thanks.
I fed the pump with 12v direct and still wasn't playing.
I have no idea why the ruddy thing won't kick in.

Fuel pump replaced and working as it should. (Fuel flows out from the fuel filter, but not what I'd call "under pressure", however I guess that would increase if it was going to the rail)
Dizzy replaced with brand new unit and sparking away merrily. Plugs and leads replaced. Dizzy cap new with dizzy.
Engine turns over as it should.
Unplugged and plugged CPS a few times. (Could have failed completely I guess but how likely is that?. Where is the actual unit to replace it?)
My understanding however is that it wouldn't spark if the CPS wasn't sending a signal. Anyone confirm or deny?

I would say CPS not working no spark, that's my thinking anyway (but I could be wrong)

Post by **Andy W** » Mon Mar 25, 2019 2:55 pm

Scooby wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:07 pm
I had thought about one of those, but I don't have a garage (or at least won't have a garage soon) as I'm planning a house extension over where the garage currently sits.

What's wrong with you man?

Post by **mikenali** » Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:50 am

I'm with Malcolms thinking, I reckon if the CPS was bust there wouldn't be any spark.

If it's getting spark, and fuel, the other thing to check is timing. Both ignition, and cam.

When the engine is turning over is it making any sort of noise that it's trying to start, or just cranking?

Post by **jrh** » Tue Mar 26, 2019 9:23 am

That fuel pump should operate at (I think from memory) 60psi.
You will have a job to stop it coming out of the pipe with your thumb at that pressure.
Hence all the big warning signs in the books about breaking fuel lines , even without the engine running.

Post by **Scooby** » Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:34 am

It's running (sort of).

After relying on my mechanic's advice and diagnosis got me exactly nowhere, my father-in-law and I decided to go back to basics.

Diagnosis revealed 6 gunked up and knackered spark plugs.

All 6 replaced and Japha sprang into life. (Yippee)

Came back to workshop this morning and tried to start it, but nothing. A bit of easystart later and back into life it springs.

Timing. Sat at 2 degrees before TDC, so now altered to be 10. Idle altered to (currently) 670 but close enough for now.

Sadly, I now have noticed I've not got any reading on the rev counter, and I've sprung a water leak from somewhere behind the dizzy.

This car really, really doesn't seem to want to get back on the road easily!!

Post by **mikenali** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:11 am

Pleased to hear you're making progress.

Some cars seem to fight you back sometimes.

The leak behind the dizzy might be the bottom pipe from the radiator. The rubber hose pushes over a metal pipe which runs up under and behind the dizzy. It has a push fit at the top with an O ring that fits into the thermostat housing. Have had problems with the pipe corroding through, or the seal leaking.

Post by **Scooby** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:18 am

mikenali wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:11 am
Pleased to hear you're making progress.

Some cars seem to fight you back sometimes.

The leak behind the dizzy might be the bottom pipe from the radiator. The rubber hose pushes over a metal pipe which runs up under and behind the dizzy. It has a push fit at the top with an O ring that fits into the thermostat housing. Have had problems with the pipe corroding through, or the seal leaking.

I had traced the leak to that joint and I was hoping someone would say it is a push-fitting

I don't feel quite so bad now.

Post by **mikenali** » Wed Mar 27, 2019 1:49 pm

Scooby wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:18 am

mikenali wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:11 am
Pleased to hear you're making progress.

Some cars seem to fight you back sometimes.

The leak behind the dizzy might be the bottom pipe from the radiator. The rubber hose pushes over a metal pipe which runs up under and behind the dizzy. It has a push fit at the top with an O ring that fits into the thermostat housing. Have had problems with the pipe corroding through, or the seal leaking.
I had traced the leak to that joint and I was hoping someone would say it is a push-fitting
I don't feel quite so bad now.

You've just got to be careful, the pipe is bolted to the engine just under the dizzy. The bolt is easy to snap, so easy does it. I know from experience

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