Won't start..

Post by **Sunfly** » Thu Dec 20, 2018 11:19 pm

Given the trouble I had and the lousy reputation of the distributor on Probes, I'd be inclined to change the distributor for a working spare. I had fuel and a spark but the engine wouldn't run. RAC man thought immobiliser because of the spark but it was the dizzy right enough. Think back to before the fault. Did you have poor running or stuttering acceleration etc? When the dizzy failed completely and I replaced it, all those little indicators that something wasn't right disappeared. Runs perfect now.

Post by **KBUK** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:48 am

jrh wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:35 pm
Good point about 'the shaking'.
That is a serious misfire somewhere.
Are you sure you don't have water getting in via a head gasket leak ?
Check the water level , take both 'rad caps' off and have a look inside the system.

Misfire could explain it.

I don't think its a major head gasket leak - before the issue it would blow white smoke for a while but this would always stop so assumed it is just the cold weather coming into play.

Have a healthy amount of water in the system, on the left side it looked a little bit low but this would always fill up once the car was running.

Post by **KBUK** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:50 am

mikenali wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 20, 2018 5:25 pm

KBUK wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:08 am
Just speaking with Adam, recons its the early model.

It's an M-Reg if that helps?
What has caught my attention, is the weak spark on the back bank. Early cars have two crankshaft sensors, one at the end on the crankshaft, and one in the distributor, so having both fail would be unlucky...but not unheard of.

Have you checked the dizzy cap, and rotor arm?

I'd check the timing like cpt black says, then that's one thing off the checklist. The shaking after you let the key go, suggests something isn't quite right with the timing.

Did the RAC bloke check for fault codes?

My mechanic has tried to check for fault codes but apparently he wasnt getting anything. He bridged the pins and followed the instructions but didn't get anything come up?

Rotor arm could be suspect
dizzy cap I have no idea what that is but assume it is the cover on the distributor?
Cranksensors failing might be unlikely but hopefully is the case as I'd already bought a couple days ago. - It is arriving today so will replace anyway and hope it at least starts.

Post by **KBUK** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:53 am

Sunfly wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 20, 2018 11:19 pm
Given the trouble I had and the lousy reputation of the distributor on Probes, I'd be inclined to change the distributor for a working spare. I had fuel and a spark but the engine wouldn't run. RAC man thought immobiliser because of the spark but it was the dizzy right enough. Think back to before the fault. Did you have poor running or stuttering acceleration etc? When the dizzy failed completely and I replaced it, all those little indicators that something wasn't right disappeared. Runs perfect now.

I like the idea of having a working spare. I'll speak to Duncan about it to see if he has anything available.
Before the issue, it had nothing wrong. No poor running, maybe a little bit of stuttering acceleration while sat in traffic but not major.

Just googled "Dizzy", I get it now

learning the lingo.

Post by **Jon G 24V** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:47 am

When checking round the Dissy have a look inside the Cap at the Centre Pin that supplies the Power to the Centre of the Rotor Arm.
There are 2 Types, one has the spring on the rotor arm and the other has the Centre Pin on the Cap Spring loaded (Late Car with Temic).
Seen a few where the Spring Loaded Pin jams and then shorts out and destroys itself meaning you get no contact to the Rotor Arm.
Checked James 'P' Reg when i did the engine and was amazed that it still ran as there was literally no pin left on the Cap, must have just been arcing across to the Rotor Arm to keep the Car running

New Dissy Cap and all was good again

Post by **KBUK** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 3:17 pm

Jon G 24V wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:47 am
When checking round the Dissy have a look inside the Cap at the Centre Pin that supplies the Power to the Centre of the Rotor Arm.
There are 2 Types, one has the spring on the rotor arm and the other has the Centre Pin on the Cap Spring loaded (Late Car with Temic).
Seen a few where the Spring Loaded Pin jams and then shorts out and destroys itself meaning you get no contact to the Rotor Arm.
Checked James 'P' Reg when i did the engine and was amazed that it still ran as there was literally no pin left on the Cap, must have just been arcing across to the Rotor Arm to keep the Car running
New Dissy Cap and all was good again

To be honest, getting a little out of my depth with this stuff...

I've replaced the CPS and surprise, surprise no difference.
Everyone is pointing to the distributor sp I've messaged Duncan to ask if he has anything from the motor he is breaking. Will this be difficult to replace?

Post by **KBUK** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 5:04 pm

Going to the next step, bypass immobilizer (needed to be done anyway)
Will order a distributor replacement also.

Does anyone know if the old forum has been recovered at all? I remember seeing a page about bypassing the immobilizer but it appears to be lost?

Post by **jrh** » Fri Dec 21, 2018 6:59 pm

Hmmm, truly, I would leave trying to 'bypass' the immobiliser until after you have got the engine running again.
One 'problem' is quite enough for the moment.
It does keep pointing to a distributor fault, though I am surprised that you get any kind of spark at the plugs. That is weird.
You told us the engine was running fine until you pulled that plug lead off, there's the clue. If you pulled it while the engine was running, "goodbye distributor".

Post by **Sunfly** » Sat Dec 22, 2018 1:46 am

If you did replace the dizzy for a known runner you've just eliminated a whole load of possibilities!

My 94 16v suffered two "wont start faults. Every 30k miles the dizzy would burn out thanks to the immobiliser and would need the module replacing. Then I had a very scary fault where the running engine would just stop for no reason. That went on for about 6 months. I'd admire the scenery in some very dodgy situations for about 30 minutes, then it would condescend to start again. That was caused by dry joints on the Bosch immobiliser board. Going over the board with a soldiering iron fixed that problem.

I think Johns advice about dealing with one fault at a time is very prudent.

Another long shot that didnt stop the engine but made it run very rough was poor connections to the injectors but you mentioned that it was flooding so probably not a fault in that area.

Post by **jrh** » Sat Dec 22, 2018 7:53 am

One other 'long shot' you could check.
Remove the MAF unit and check that the big 'plunger' in the centre moves really smoothly from shut to open.
MAF (mass air flow ) is the connecting bit between the air filter and the inlet air manifold to the engine.
Make sure you know where all the pipes and electrical plugs go ( make a list ) when you reconnect.

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