Yeah your correct about the temps you mention which is why I did a lot of research on this due to possible temperature issues and contacted the manufactures and also am a member of a forum site called practical prints who make things, other than hero statues , that are needed around the house like things that have broken and are either too expensive to buy or just don’t exist and a lot of people make things for old cars and use ABS although they have also stated that they wouldn’t use ABS if in direct contact with the hottest part of the engine and would use Nylon. The manufactures claim is that their ABS has a glass transition temperature point of 125C or 257f, although I’m pretty sure that cheaper brands wouldn’t come close. Car engines are said to run at temperatures of between 195-200f so all good there. I’ve had mine on now for about 4 months just to be doubly sure and are still good, also to be even safer I’ve printed these solid and not with your usual hollow infill. I seem to remember that there was a similar conversation about this when a member made head light surrounds to replace the rusty ones and some members mentioned the main beam temperature but can’t remember what material was used but never heard anybody having any issues although I appreciate that's slightly different here thanks for pointing this out though always worth a heads up just in caseSunfly wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2019 8:35 amHi Twizzle. You've done a brilliant job of these clips and I would guess they will do their job well where they are located because of the air flow but can I alert you to a potential problem that might be worth checking. If it is ABS you are using, I think you've been quoted the printer injector head temperature rather than the glass transition temperature (when ABS goes floppy) because that starts at about 110deg C. My company vacuum mold a lot of ABS and it goes like pastry from about 110 to 140 deg C.Twizzle wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2019 10:52 amI'm happy to make these if anybody is interested. For those that are familiar with 3D printing they take over 13hrs to print as I make them as a solid unit for strength and not hollow, which is the standard procedure, which in turn means they use quite a lot of filament (material) so not cheap on material or electric. They're printed in ABS which has a melting point of 500F or 260c. At the moment I can make them in Black or Blue, looking to do some in red but need to make an order up for the filament as buying a single roll isn't cheap (£5.00 postage on top of the price for a single roll). I can't do them any cheaper than £10 for a full set to full members only If anybody is interested just let me know and I can drop them off at fest
There are only a few plastics that are capable of retaining their properties above 200c, PTFE being the most common. Its one of the few plastics we can use to make powder coating plugs and shields from, as most plastics transition well below the 210 to 230c curing oven temperature. With safety in mind, can I suggest you put a thermometer in the hottest location for the clips and just check it stays well below 110c.
HT Lead Brackets 24v
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Re: HT Lead Brackets
Re: HT Lead Brackets
Four months is a good test. Obviously I was thinking fire and hot exhaust but as mentioned, there's a good air flow over the engine. Looks like you've solved another supply problem so well done mate !Twizzle wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2019 11:47 amYeah your correct about the temps you mention which is why I did a lot of research on this due to possible temperature issues and contacted the manufactures and also am a member of a forum site called practical prints who make things, other than hero statues , that are needed around the house like things that have broken and are either too expensive to buy or just don’t exist and a lot of people make things for old cars and use ABS although they have also stated that they wouldn’t use ABS if in direct contact with the hottest part of the engine and would use Nylon. The manufactures claim is that their ABS has a glass transition temperature point of 125C or 257f, although I’m pretty sure that cheaper brands wouldn’t come close. Car engines are said to run at temperatures of between 195-200f so all good there. I’ve had mine on now for about 4 months just to be doubly sure and are still good, also to be even safer I’ve printed these solid and not with your usual hollow infill. I seem to remember that there was a similar conversation about this when a member made head light surrounds to replace the rusty ones and some members mentioned the main beam temperature but can’t remember what material was used but never heard anybody having any issues although I appreciate that's slightly different here thanks for pointing this out though always worth a heads up just in caseSunfly wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2019 8:35 amHi Twizzle. You've done a brilliant job of these clips and I would guess they will do their job well where they are located because of the air flow but can I alert you to a potential problem that might be worth checking. If it is ABS you are using, I think you've been quoted the printer injector head temperature rather than the glass transition temperature (when ABS goes floppy) because that starts at about 110deg C. My company vacuum mold a lot of ABS and it goes like pastry from about 110 to 140 deg C.Twizzle wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2019 10:52 amI'm happy to make these if anybody is interested. For those that are familiar with 3D printing they take over 13hrs to print as I make them as a solid unit for strength and not hollow, which is the standard procedure, which in turn means they use quite a lot of filament (material) so not cheap on material or electric. They're printed in ABS which has a melting point of 500F or 260c. At the moment I can make them in Black or Blue, looking to do some in red but need to make an order up for the filament as buying a single roll isn't cheap (£5.00 postage on top of the price for a single roll). I can't do them any cheaper than £10 for a full set to full members only If anybody is interested just let me know and I can drop them off at fest
There are only a few plastics that are capable of retaining their properties above 200c, PTFE being the most common. Its one of the few plastics we can use to make powder coating plugs and shields from, as most plastics transition well below the 210 to 230c curing oven temperature. With safety in mind, can I suggest you put a thermometer in the hottest location for the clips and just check it stays well below 110c.
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Re: HT Lead Brackets 24v
Tony,
Sent us your address
I’ll put the 16v samples in the post.
There are four types
Two cable
Three cable. (clip broken underneath, but same as the two cable one
Four cables in a line
Four cables in square
Then you can give them back to me at Probefest
Kit
Sent us your address
I’ll put the 16v samples in the post.
There are four types
Two cable
Three cable. (clip broken underneath, but same as the two cable one
Four cables in a line
Four cables in square
Then you can give them back to me at Probefest
Kit
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Re: HT Lead Brackets 24v
Here are the cable clip arrangements for both S1 & S3 Dizzy’s
I note, there’s 4 cable clip that’s fixed to cam cover, right hand side, I haven’t sent you one I’ve these, may be you could come up with one
Kit
Re: HT Lead Brackets 24v
Cool, somebody else with a 3D printer! I have never attempted ABS with mine but made all sorts from PLA.
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Re: HT Lead Brackets 24v
I said to Tony on Sunday that you would be interested in these, as you also had a 3D printer
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