UKPOC forums

Steady idle speed is only achieved after about 10 to 15 seconds, during that time the throttle is sitting down on the idle adjustment screw stop.
Speed is being controlled by the ECU via all the sensors, one of which is the MAF, the throttle never moves.
The 'beat' is so slow and regular ,not connected to anything rotating which makes me think it may be the MAF moving.
Definitely not serious so I wouldn't worry too much.

Ok I sort of get what you mean now. I'll most definitely share this suggestion along with all the others to the garage when it goes in.

Thank you for your input, always appreciated

Is this along the right lines for a hydraulic tensioner? EBay item no 153480862318

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153480862318

Seems the US is cheapest, despite postage and tax. There are plenty for a higher price in Australia and one or two even more expensive from our shores.

I'll check my Haynes tomorrow and see what sort of a job it will be to get the cam belt cover off so I can check the existing tensioner. Hope that's the issue, can finally tick that worry off if so and move onto the next one!

Alan8086 wrote: ↑

Tue May 05, 2020 4:09 am

Is this along the right lines for a hydraulic tensioner? EBay item no 153480862318

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153480862318

Seems the US is cheapest, despite postage and tax. There are plenty for a higher price in Australia and one or two even more expensive from our shores.

I'll check my Haynes tomorrow and see what sort of a job it will be to get the cam belt cover off so I can check the existing tensioner. Hope that's the issue, can finally tick that worry off if so and move onto the next one!

That's the one! If you need it a bit quicker then AutoDoc are showing stock....

Spoke to Mechanic today over the phone and discussed the problem and played him the audio clip. He said the culprit may be the oil pump.... His logic; the oil pressure gauge is showing slightly lower than expected, the weak pressure is causing the hydraulic tensioner to not do its job right and Possibly not lubricating the drive train properly hence the faulty lifters that were replaced. Seems to make sense but as he pointed out, all hypothetical until he inspects it.

Doesn't look like an oil pump is all that expensive nor too big a job......but I'm no mechanic, I could be wrong!

Sorry to be dim - so the hydraulic tensioner is actually plumbed into the engine's oil system? Its not just an oil filled damper thing?

I've been searching the 'net for 'ford probe gt replace oil pump' - guides. Mostly I end up on Mazda Miata forums. For them its remove the front subframe to open the oil pan to access the pump or remove the engine. For us its just remove the oil pan and there is the oil pump, right?

If that is the case, that seems simpler than trying to access the hydraulic damper through the d/s wheel arch and hoping replacing it fixes my issues? I have noticed a slight drop in oil pressure at the gauge in the last few months - and a worsening of the hydraulic lifter noise, and now this louder noise like in your video.

Various people here tell me my 96' Probe's oil pressure gauge reading is fairly meaningless? That gauge indicator going up and down with the engine revs must mean something?

Stop right there.
The hydraulic tensioner is a completely separate unit.
It is a glorified gas strut ,like the ones on your boot.
When the gas/seal leaks it stops working.

Ok - stopped in my tracks

Was going off 'weak pressure is causing the hydraulic tensioner to not do its job right' in the OPs previous post - seemed odd, a hydraulic tensioner linked to the oil system. I'll go back to the original advice!

Throws the mechanics theory right out the window then! Knowing my luck the bloody thing will want the hydraulic tensioner and an oil pump! Its putting up a fight!

Sorry to resurrect an old thread - My GT is still making this same noise when the engine is cold etc. Its still making it as i have been hesitant about removing the timing belt cover, although I've been sent a useful pic from member jrh - about making the tool to lock the crank pully before removing it. Basically, I just haven't done it yet.

On my car that noise is coming from the rear bank, exactly where the cam gears would be - I just found some info about the friction gear that exists on each cam which is meant to stop backlash on the helical gears - when the friction gear fails, that racket is the backlash noise. Symptoms are loud 'clacking' sound (louder than HLA ticking) below 2000rpm, especially when the engine is cold - exactly my symptoms.

https://www.mx6.com/threads/knocking-no ... is-it.873/

https://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopi ... 19&t=24466

Has anyone come across this as an issue and the friction gear replacement as a fix for it?

Its considered a purely cosmetic issue - as the backlash has no effect other than making a silent running engine sound like a tractor. I'd sure like to give it a go as I know how quiet this 24v engine can be.