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I'd do the Water Pump and possibly the Idler if the Bearing doesn't feel great.
Also the Tensioner Spring on the Idler is a must on a 16V

I'd start with the Basics. Run it up with no Air Box so that you can see if the VAF is moving freely. Then i would hunt over the VAC Pipes to see if there is any obvious splits etc. After that it would be Throttle Body off and lean out the IAC Valve underneath it. Some of the Codes are for O2 Sensor...

No need to worry as these are driving lights not fog lights and they should only come on with main beam, so all good

cpt black wrote: ↑
Tue Oct 29, 2019 4:49 pm
Have tried adjusting the TPS & Base idle settings

Good advise. Don't forget you need to be fully up to temp ie stat open and fans cutting in and out and you need the Link across TEN and GND when making adjustments

Good advice, been there and stripped the threads

Pumps don't usually fail as in the impeller falls off and you get no circulation. If they go it's usually the Shaft seal that leaks causing a loss of coolant. I would take the Stat out again put the housing back on refill it and run with no Stat until you get both rad Hoses hot. Keep topping up the ...

To set the Base Idle you will need to put the link between TEN and GND in the Diagnostics Box

If you link together the Wires according to the Write up then the Car should start and run. Once your happy everything is working OK then cut the Wires in linked pairs (one pair at a time) and twist / solder together for a permanent fix. The Immobiliser then goes in the bin along with the Button Key...

That is Hydraulic Tensioner.
Put this item number in EBay and you'll find what your looking for 371901165068

They should be fine as they are for the 'KL' Engine.

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