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When all is up and runniing again , contact Sales@ignitioncarparts.co.uk to either buy parts or send distributor for repair.
As said, many times, always carry a spare with you.

Well done . How a fuse fails can tell you something. If you can see a small 'ball' on each broken end chances are it was running at max capacity for too long / tired. If nothing is left or spattered everywhere then something or somebody shorted the circuit somewhere ...................in which case ...

There should be a little light on the key fob which lights up if the battery is ok when you press the button.
Then you should hear a 'click' as the relays work in the moby.
Then the engine should crank over, etc.

The intermittent fault as you drive may be a broken connection somewhere along the wire. IF you have a digital voltmeter you could try putting a bent 90deg nail in your electric drill , connect voltmeter to the two wires set to lowest voltage, start drill and try to get the nail head skimming close ...

Finding a flexy is easy , the next trick is getting the bolts out of the manifold flanges intact .

Ah yes, the front bolt , a trained six year old is what you need , or tiny, tiny hands.

Seems like the rubber cap has stuck itself to the inside of the tube.
You're just faced with the task of trying to run a long narrow chisel ended 'screwdriver ' down the tube, to cut the ring off the side of the tube.

The condition on slowing down will pull the highest vacuum conditions so something influenced by that situation may be the cause of your problem.
The MAF unit got to be on the list of checks.

Absolutely Bob, and those tiny ignition circuit relay contacts are not big enough for the job after a few years SO you have to either jam that relay on, all the time with a matchstick OR short that circuit permanently.

You should ALWAYS have a known working spare distributor anyway , so has to be a first try.
Plus, if the immobiliser hasn't been modified , that has to be sorted too.

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