UKPOC forums

That's good Bob, just the needle 'flickers' to decode now.

No, the resistor is in series with any 'leg' of the LED. The purpose is just to limit the current draw to a tiny amount under any circumstances.
Some 'cheap' voltmeters can impose a significant load on the circuit ( that needle doesn't move by magic ! ).

Secondly, the reason why I think the LED method is better , no 'inertia' to overcome !
The gaps between driving the voltmeter pointer 'up' may not be long enough i.e. will look like a series of 'dots' with no 'dashes'.

Best to look at the plan view of the diagnostic socket in your wiring diagram book.
Then, a piece of stiff wire loops between GND and TEN
The +ve leg of the LED goes in B+ the other leg in FEN.
The 4.7k resistor can be in either leg of the LED.
Read the Morse code flashes.

I would be a bit nervous using a multimeter ! They can impose quite a load on the device (ohms/volt) .
Dead easy to make up the LED tester +4.7k resistor and the straight wire link and count the 'dots and dashes'.

Can you pin-point where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope before doing anything drastic ?
I have to say that the oil pressure does seem a 'bit' low.
Even my dear old M515 never went below halfway on the gauge at 230,000miles.

I think ,perhaps, the ABS unit stops the system from being sucked dry.
You have no choice now but to flush the whole system from 'the top' , one wheel at a time.

Yes, that is correct.
The 'front' tubular struts are 10mm short.

I can promise you will not have any problem like that with the Dinitrol 77B !
It isn't cheap but will outlast Waxoyl many times over.

Yes, that was what I thought it was but...........
On closer inspection, it's NOT the closing piece that fits at the end of the trim ( as it runs down the side of the tailgate window ).
No, don't know.